Special Morocco stories I'd only share with you
a few things my pics don't show
So my last few emails were filled with the highlights of our trip from Marrakech to the Sahara. But now I want to share a few deeper thoughts about what I saw and felt in Morocco.
First off, I have to acknowledge that being on a scheduled tour with a comfortable van and guides everywhere definitely filtered my experience. We didn't have as much time as I'd have liked to wander aimlessly and stumble into those serendipitous moments you have with slow travel.
But as my friend Katie pointed out, "Before actually being here, 3 weeks away would have been a hard sell." So I'm grateful for what we did experience, even if it was a bit choreographed.
Three things struck me:
1. Our guide Hassan Amraoui and the Berber nomadic culture:
Hassan was our window into Moroccan culture and how it’s changing. He's Berber, the oldest tribe in North Africa and skilled nomads of the Sahara desert—he grew up as a nomad in the desert. His family (with 9 kids 😳) only settled in a town when he and his twin brother were school-age so they could get an education.
We had lunch at his family's home - a simple clay compound where many of his family live together, with no air conditioning, but they do have a TV. (I asked Hassan about Wifi and everyone laughed 😂)
It was one of the most memorable days of the trip, filled with the warmth and hospitality you’d expect, despite the language barrier.
His sister-in-law made a traditional Berber pizza (tabadirt) which is flatbread dough stuffed with beef or lamb, diced onions, and various spices, and baked in a clay oven. When you slice into it you get a whiff of the spices, vegetables, and meat, and it makes your mouth water.
I would have eaten it over tagine every day. It was the only time we were offered it on the trip and I was so touched to try it with Hassan’s family.
His twin brother served us lunch and mint tea as we all sat around a low table with cushions on the clay brick floor. Hassan translated for us with his family, while his niece and nephews ran around us, not quite sure what to make of this group of Western women with their beloved uncle.
The nomadic way of life is still alive in Morocco, especially in the Atlas Mountains and Sahara. It’s obviously dwindling from modernization, climate change, and shifting land use. Plus, education and technology are shaping the younger generations to keep up with the global economy.
We saw nomadic tents and dwellings in the countryside, camels parked roadside, and women baking traditional bread in clay ovens on mountain roads. (Reminded me of roadside chai in India.) It felt like a glimpse into a vanishing world.
2. A surprising lack of anti-Semitism:
Here’s something unexpected - as Jews, we felt more relaxed in Morocco than we do in the Bay Area right now. Weird, right? It got me thinking about Morocco's Jewish history.
Did you know that in 1948, Morocco had the largest Jewish community in the Muslim world, with about 270,000 people? Most left for Israel when it was founded, and more were pushed out during the early Arab-Israeli conflicts.
But here's the thing - you can still feel traces of that history everywhere. In each city, our guide took us to the old Jewish quarters.
I had mixed emotions - seeing the old synagogues and hearing stories about how Muslims, Jews, and Christians used to live side by side harmoniously. It's not perfect, and a lot has changed, but there's still this sense of shared history that felt... I don't know, kind of heartening? It made me wonder if that’s ever going to be possible again, you know?
3. Big changes coming with the World Cup:
Morocco is gearing up to co-host the 2030 World Cup with Portugal and Spain. They're planning to build the world's largest football stadium, with a capacity for 115,000 spectators. This event and hosting AFCON 2025 are driving rapid modernization and expansion in Marrakech.
The contrast between how Hassan talked about upcoming changes and the traditional life we witnessed made me a little sad that its unique and vibrant culture will be watered down like every other developing country that’s being overrun by this aesthetic I call, “gobal chic.”
When you walk into a cafe or restaurant and you could be anywhere in the world, it feels so pristine and homogeneous.
As the late King Hassan II said, "Morocco is a tree, the roots of which are planted firmly in Africa but has its branches in Europe." It's a culture that honors its roots while reaching for modernization.
But at what cost?
I could feel Morocco's ancient culture slipping away with the younger generation in this push towards modernization. If you want to experience a hint of its deep African and nomadic roots, I'd suggest going before the World Cup frenzy. (Morocco should definitely be on your list.)
Reader, there's so much more to unpack, but these were the thoughts that kept swirling in my mind.
And when you’re head is tangled with ideas, it’s so helpful to talk them through with someone.
That’s why I thought of you.
So I’m still offering (10 ) 5 chai chats in July. It’s a chance for you to talk through one thing your struggling with in your writing or your Substack. We’ll brainstorm over a cozy cup of tea (or something stronger).
Grab your free spot on my calendar here because they’re filling up!
Stay creative,
Jen
P.S. If you want to see how traditional Berber pizza is made here’s a great video by Max Miller of Tasting History. His trip was organized and sponsored by Wanderlust Voyages - the company we used. My friend Marci worked directly with Meghan in the video. Highly recommend this 11-minute video if you want an authentic Moroccan cooking experience. They shopped at the Risini market where most of my market photos in Oh the colors of Morocco were taken.
P.P.S. I crowd-sourced a few more favorite travel clothes and accessories from our trip. If you have summer vacation plans, you may want to check these out:
✔️ Mephisto Dominica Sandals: My friend Marci wore these most of the trip because they’re such a great blend of style and comfort. The thick soles grip any ground and easily go from day to night.
✔️ Taos Plim Soul Sneaker: I have the blue canvas but they come in a variety of colors. So comfortable and stylish, best part it didn’t take long to break them in.
✔️ Birkenstock Bend Sneaker: Katie wore these all over Europe and Morocco. If you prefer a white leather shoe, they looked so cute on her with shorts, dresses and summer skirts.
✔️ Retreat Linen Mid-Rise Wide Leg Pant: Such great comfortable linen pants. They pack well and are breathable. Post-trip, I’m wearing them all the time in the Texas heat right now.
✔️ Vekkia Rechargeable Neck Reading Light: A must-have after rooming with my buddy Andrea. She used this to read at night with all the lights out as I was falling asleep and I hardly noticed. Great for planes too!
✔️ Bandolier Hailey Side slot leather crossbody wallet phone
✔️ Hailey Expandable version: Essential accessory for walking around crowded cities, running errands at home, and riding camels in the desert. 😂
That mint tea photo looks like a work of art! I had to stop and stare at it a while.
What hospitality from Hassan’s family! Thank you for sharing their glimpse behind the tourist attractions.